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Archive for the ‘Scones’ Category

[Once I have baked and posted each of the recipes in a single chapter of the MSBH, I will post a "Chapter Recap" broken into several parts.  This is Part III of my recap of the first chapter in the MSBH, "Simple Baked Goods."  You can read Part I here and Part II here.]

Don’t forget to leave a comment in Part I by 9 pm MST on May 8th to be entered in my give-away!

There are four scone recipes in the MSBH – two were wonderful, two were not wonderful.  The one that was the most wonderful?  Certainly the first, Currant Scones, along with its delightful variation the Lemon Ginger Scone which I made extra lemony.

Currant Scone

Lemon Ginger Scone

The Fennel and Golden Raisin Scones were quite good as well, and I absolutely love anything with fennel.

Fennel and Golden Raisin Scones

The Oat and Apricot Scones were not good, not at all.  I made them a second time without the egg and the results were much, much better.

Oat and Apricot Scones

Finally, those awful Chocolate Scones.  Just horrid.  I think the fault lies first and foremost with the concept.  I’ve never – not even from excellent bakeries – never had an all-chocolate scone that wasn’t dry and bland and crumbly and awful.

Chocolate Scones

If there is ever a Volume II of the MSBH, here are some scones recipes I’d love to see:

  • A berry scone using fresh fruit (not dried fruit)
  • Savory scones
  • A pumpkin scone

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This is a variation on the Currant Scones and my version here is a variation on that variation. I really wanted thiese scones to go KAPOW! with lemony-gingery flavor and that informed the adjustments I made.  I succeeded!

The MSBH simply instructs you to substitute some lemon zest, lemon juice, and crystallized ginger for the currants.  I did this, of course, but added some grated fresh ginger as well and increased the amount of lemon zest by about 50%.

I added some Bakewell Cream to the dry ingredients, which is supposed to drastically improve biscuit-type baked goods and  I am still on the fence about that.  I am unconvinced it is worth it – I’ve never noticed drastically improved results but I hope to do a more in-depth review of this ingredient later.

Instead of using cream as the liquid ingredient that brings the dough together, I used only lemonade.  I mixed the freshly grated ginger and lemon juice in the lemonade before mixing it into the dry ingredients.

The dough came together superbly.  I did not trade out the cream for the lemonade exactly cup-for-cup, but I never really measure wet ingredients when making scones.  I just add enough until the dough is where I think it should be.

The rest is according to the recipe and they came out beautifully – very flavorful and tender, buttery and biscuity, and lemme tell you what – ZING! BAM! POW! The lemon is so powerful, it’s exactly what I was going for!  I love them so much!  I am currently of the mind that all scones should be made with lemonade.

If you substituted vegetable shortening for butter and used raw sugar, these lemonade scones would be 100% vegan.  I cannot wait to try it!

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Remember how previous MSBH scone recipes left more than a little to be desired?  Well these currant scones make up for what the Oat and Dried Apricot Scones and Chocolate Scones are lacking. I don’t think it’s any coincidence that this Currant Scone recipe does not call for an egg to be added to the scone dough.  What results is a flaky, moist, buttery scone that is perfect in every way.

I add some orange zest with the currants.  The MSBH recipe doesn’t call for this, but I think it’s too good to do without. The citrus-y zest complements the sweet currants so well.

The scones are cut like the Apricot Oat Scones, yielding 16 triangular scones.

The unbaked scones are brushed with an egg-cream wash and sprinkled with sparkling white sugar.  I love the King Arthur sugar for sanding baked goods – the sugar won’t melt even at relatively high temperatures and it gives each bite a sweet crunch.  Raw sugar works much in the same way but it lacks the pretty clear “sparkle” of the white sugar.

Then it’s in to the oven.

I only baked half of the batch.  The other scones I placed in a freezer-safe containers with plastic wrap for good measure.  They can go straight from the freezer to the oven.

This is a wonderful base-scone recipe.  Instead of currants and orange zest, you could add almond slices and cranberries; or lemon zest and poppyseeds; or sunflower seeds and some honey.  The possibilities are endless.  The MSBH includes a Lemon-Ginger variation on this recipe that I’ll be trying soon.

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Finally, a scone recipe from the MSBH I can fully endorse.  And guess what?  No eggs in the dough.  I adore these scones.  I’ve made them several times and they always turn out well.

Fennel seeds – you’re supposed to grind up the seeds in a spice grinder or mortar & pestle.  I’ve never been good at grinding seeds by hand (I more or less just end up moving them around the mortar with the pestle) and I don’t have a spice grinder.  I’ve thought about getting an electric spice grinder, but I can’t help but think that the first time you use it to grind a really fragrant spice, you’ll never get that smell out of it and it will taint any spice you grind in the future.  Can anyone speak to this?

So anyhow, I used my food processor with acceptable-but-not-ideal results.

And the other major component of this recipe – the golden raisins – are simply chopped up a little bit.  I love cooking and baking with golden raisins.  They are delightful.

One of the things that lends these scones their rich, savory flavor is the addition of extra virgin olive oil with the wet ingredients.

I always err on the side of making my dough too dry rather than too wet.  It’s all a balancing act, I find, mixing a dough until it “just comes together” as the recipe instructs.  I know this sort of ambiguity is why so many people do not like to bake at home.  But it’s difficult to dictate an exact measurement for baked goods.  I think that’s one of the major differences between cooking and baking.  With cooking, you can more times than not simply rely 100% of the measurements of a trusted recipe and you’ll turn out reliably good dishes.  With baking, however, you have to get a “feel” for when your dough is right.  Sometimes you’ll need less flour, other times you’ll need more cream.

In baking, you often have to make a recipe over and over and, sometimes, over yet again and pay attention each time to your dough and what kind of baked good it yields.  You have to understand how the desired flakyness of a certain baked good, for example, is affected by the moistness of the dough. You have to know whether adding more flour or simply a few more minutes of kneading will bring together your bread dough.  And you can’t figure that out by reading a recipe – you have to learn it by doing it and redoing it.

I think that’s why so many people eschew baking beyond store-bought boxed mixes.  Those mixes have been engineered to yield consistent results and have a slew of chemical ingredients to guarantee it happens.  But to make baked goods from scratch, with real ingredients, you have to develop a working knowledge of how doughs should feel when they’re “right.”  And, in order to develop that knowledge, you simply have to make a lot of mistakes, figure out why you made them, and learn how to correct them.  Unless you can take classes and have someone teach you first-hand, the best way is through self-education (reading about the art and science of baking) and trial-and-error.

I knew when I got to this point, my scone dough was where I wanted it.

The dough is rolled out like you would for biscuits and the individual scones are cut with a cookie cutter.

The bits of butter melt while the scones bake, leaving pockets of air and giving the scones their tender, flaky quality.  Butter also adds flavor and moisture.  Is there anything butter cannot do?  No, no there is not.  Butter is massaging my shoulders and filing my taxes as I write this.

I used to always shrug off egg washes out of impatience, but they really do add a golden, polished finished to baked goods while allowing you to top the item with seeds, sugar, salt, whatever.  Fennel seeds are sprinkled on top of each scone here and I also sprinkled some sea salt on top.

I like these best warm from the oven with some butter and honey.  They keep pretty well but definitely lose a lot of their charm after the first day. I sometimes toast them the next day and eat them with goat cheese and red onion.

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Remember  the Chocolate Scones I made from the MSBH not so long ago?  Remember how they turned out not so good?  Well, the recipe for Oat and Dried Apricot Scones is more of the same.  I think it’s this unfortunate addition of an egg with the wet ingredients.  Scones do perfectly well without eggs.  I like my scones more on the biscuit-side of things, and so the egg and the cake-y texture it creates bugs me. Do British bakers use eggs in their scones? Is that the “traditional” way of making scones?  Will someone please explain this absurdity to me?

I think this recipe would be fantastic if we omitted the egg and just added a bit more buttermilk to compensate.  Someday, I will make them again and do just that.  But until then, I give you the MSBH approach to Oat and Dried Apricot Scones.

The dried apricots and oats are inspired and seem like a no-brainer addition to any scone.

The dry ingredients are pretty straightforward.  Keeping the apricot bits from sticking together in one big clump takes some work.

Then the wet ingredients are added and a loose ball of scone dough results.  Exciting stuff.

The scones are formed and cut.  I should have cut each of those smaller rectangles diagonally into two triangles but I spaced it.  I think it would have helped immensely in the look of the final scones.  Had I left the egg out, they would have likely kept their rectangular shape too.  And tasted miles better.

But this is what I ended up with.  Blech!  I’ll make them again without the egg and post results.  It was so disappointing to be left with these little blobs of blob.  It’s like something you’d see in the lunchbox of a factory worker in some grimey industrial city during the Great Depression.  He’d pull out one of these shapeless, chewy scones from a dirty napkin in his rusty lunch tin and grimly take a bite while contemplating his dismal lot in life.

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Chocolate scones sound like a brilliant idea, but honestly, I have never had one that tastes good.  They’re always too dry, too cake-y, too flat, too flavorless.  Sadly, this recipe from the MSBH is no exception.  It certainly is a much more involved approach than any I have tried before, and I had high hopes, but the MSBH’s chocolate scones disappointed.  These were especially dry, despite my using aboout 50% more cream than the recipe called for in order to get my dough to come together.

The dry ingredients include cocoa powder, which gives the flour mixture it’s brown color.

I have the best success with scones when I use a method from Alton Brown to cut in the butter.  Brown recommends using your fingers to “rub” the butter into the dry ingredients.  I use a pastry cutter to begin cutting in the chunks of butter and then finish with my fingers.

The rubbing is, as Brown describes it, “like feeling velvet or a puppy’s ears.”  You do not rub back and forth, as you don’t want to warm the butter too much.  I move the butter and flour through my hands in just one direction, creating flakes of butter with the mixture, trying to handle flakes only once.  The flakes melt while baking, leaving thin pockets of air in the scones, giving them a wonderful tender quality, much lighter than simply using the pastry cutter to create pea-sized pieces.

Once I literally feel that most of the large butter clumps are worked out, I put the mixture in the refrigerator so the butter flakes can chill.  This ensures that they are not further worked into the flour while completing the dough.  You want them to keep their flake shape.

At this stage, the chocolate chunks are added.  One thing I appreciate about the MSBH is that actual measurements are specified in almost every instance where they might be needed.  Here, the baker is instructed to chop the chocolate into 1/4-inch chunks.

When I first started baking, I wondered why one would bother to chop chocolate when chocolate chips are so readily available.  But this is another lesson I learned from Alton Brown: chocolate chunks melt differently than chocolate chips because the chocolate chunks contain more cocoa solids and far, far less sugar.  This means the chunks do not melt as quickly, nor do they stay melted upon returning to room temperature like chocolate chips do.  If you bite into a baked good made with chunks, you’ll notice that the chunks provide a distinct texture and flavor – much more so than chocolate chips do, which blend in with what surrounds them.  So, if a recipe calls for chunks, I take the time to chop chunks.

The wet ingredients finish off the dough – in this case, cream and an egg.  Then it’s just a manner of forming and cutting the scones.  For this recipe, the MSBH instructs the baker to make a long rectangle – 18 x 3 inches.

I dropped the dough down and started forming it with my hands from one end down to the other.  The scones will generally keep their shape, so this is an important step to keep neat and precise.

Six huge scones!  But they are precisely the size the MSBH calls for.  I was horrified.  They then go in the freezer on a baking sheet to freeze.

After freezing, they are brushed with an egg wash and sprinkled with sanding sugar, then baked.


They look like cow pies.  They taste unappealing as well.

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